Merlot and 'priest chokers'

Rolled pasta, spinach, goat cheese and walnuts stand up to tannins

April 7, 2004

By MICHELE ANNA JORDAN
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

Although our Wine of the Week, Merriam Vineyards 2000 Russian River Valley Windacre Vineyard Merlot ($35), has abundant fruit flavors, it is not a fruit bomb.

By this I mean that the wine's fruit, especially blueberry, blackberry, a hint of strawberry and profound black raspberry, unfold with grace on the mid and side palate, rather than on the front of the palate.

This subtle quality makes the wine compatible with a broader array of foods than it might otherwise be.

Wines that have a lot of up-front fruit pose certain difficulties, especially when there's a suggestion of sweetness along with it.

This wine will work with any of the foods traditionally paired with merlot, from blueberries, wild rice and portobello mushrooms to barbecued beef, braised beef, cooked tomatoes and white bean soups and purees.

Yet the wine's focus and its restrained tannins allow you to pair it successfully with certain light fare, as well, especially when there's a bit of cheese to engage those tannins.

Today's recipe couldn't be simpler and it's perfect either as a first course before, say, steaks from the grill, or as a main dish on a warm spring night. Strozzapreti -- which translates as "priest chokers" -- is a rolled pasta about 3 to 4 inches long.

You can find it in good Italian delis and gourmet markets; Traverso's in Santa Rosa always has it on hand.

Be sure to toast the walnuts -- use a heavy dry pan set over medium heat -- until they are lightly browned on both sides, a process that will tame the tannins; untoasted, they will make the wine taste bitter.

Strozzapreti with Spinach, Goat Cheese and Walnuts

Makes 3 to 4 servings

8-10 ounces strozzapreti

- Kosher salt

1/4 pound fresh baby spinach, rinsed but not dried

4 tablespoons best-quality olive oil

4-5 ounces fresh chevre, such as Laura Chenel Chevre chabis

- Black pepper in a mill

1/2 cup walnut pieces, lightly toasted

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until it is just tender, about 15 minutes.

A few minutes before the pasta is done, put the spinach in a wok or other pot, set over medium heat, cover and cook until just limp, about 2 minutes.

Remove from the heat but leave covered.

Break the cheese into pieces.

When the pasta is done, drain it, do not rinse it, and put it into a deep serving bowl. Add the wilted spinach, the cheese and the olive oil and toss gently.

Season with salt and several turns of black pepper and toss gently.

Scatter the walnuts on top and serve immediately.

E-mail Michele Anna Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com.